When Rhodes comes to mind, we typically think of knights' castles, medieval walls, and azure Aegean waters. Yet in a quiet corner just beyond the crowded tourist routes, near the coastline, lies a place that most travelers pass without ever noticing: the Mosque of Koca Murat Reis and the historic Muslim cemetery. Beneath the shade of cypress trees, in a silent courtyard where marble turbans crown gravestones, lies perhaps the most poignant witness to Rhodes's nearly four centuries of Ottoman past. In this article, based on verified historical sources, we tell the story of this forgotten corner.
The Ottoman Period in Rhodes: 1522 to 1912
Rhodes had long been under the rule of the Knights of Saint John (Hospitallers). In 1522, Suleiman the Magnificent conquered the island following a long and difficult siege, and Rhodes remained under Ottoman administration for approximately four centuries. This rule lasted until 1912, when the Italians occupied the island. This lengthy period left deep imprints on Rhodes's fabric in the form of mosques, fountains, bathhouses, libraries, and cemeteries. Today, within the medieval walls of the island's old city, these traces remain visible.
Who Was Koca Murat Reis?
Koca Murat Reis (circa 1534–1609), to whom the mosque and külliye owe their name, was one of the leading Ottoman seafarers of the 16th century. Also known as "Murat Reis the Elder," this captain became a prominent commander in the Ottoman navy during the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent. Trained in his youth under Turgut Reis, Murat Reis sailed the same seas as legendary figures like Barbaros Hayreddin Pasha and Piri Reis.
Throughout his career, he undertook expeditions throughout the Mediterranean. Historical sources record that he participated in the 1538 Naval Battle of Preveza, engaged Portuguese forces in expeditions reaching as far as the Indian Ocean, and even sailed into the Atlantic in 1585, conducting raids as far as the Canary Islands. According to tradition, at the end of a long and adventurous seafaring career, he was mortally wounded in 1609 during the clash at Baf (Paphos) off Cyprus against French-Maltese fleets and died from his wounds. It should be noted that historical sources refer to more than one seafarer bearing the name "Murad Reis"; this similarity occasionally leads to confusion. The külliye in Rhodes was built in memory of this senior admiral from the reign of Suleiman.
The Mosque and Külliye: A Sanctuary Built on a Church's Site
The Mosque of Murat Reis stands outside the walls of Rhodes's old city, at a point near the coastline. According to sources, the structure was completed around 1623 by Ebubekir Pasha on the site of a former church dedicated to Saint Anthony. The mosque is not a standalone building; a külliye surrounds it: the minaret-topped mosque, a mausoleum, an ablution fountain, a tekke (lodge) for dervishes, lodgings for caretakers and officials, and an extensive cemetery.
An intriguing detail: the cemetery itself is older than the mosque. Historical sources indicate that three officers who died during the 1522 conquest under Suleiman are buried there. That is, these lands served as a place of burial approximately a century before the mosque was built. The structure underwent various repairs over the centuries; Mourabit Hassan Bey, who restored the building in 1797–1798, ultimately rests among those buried here. The mosque ceased functioning for worship from the 1940s onward and was never reopened as an active mosque.
Approximately 200 Graves and Eight Mausoleums: The Silent City of Exiles
The cemetery is among the most striking remnants of Ottoman heritage in Rhodes. According to sources, the külliye contains approximately two hundred graves and eight mausoleums (in some accounts, seven domed mausoleums). The marble turbans adorning the tops of male gravestones and the distinctive headpieces on female graves represent the finest examples of the classical Ottoman gravestone tradition preserved on the island. Over time, toppled turbaned stones scattered among hibiscus flowers lend the cemetery a melancholy elegance.
A significant portion of those buried here were Ottoman officials and administrators who served the state. Yet the cemetery becomes particularly striking when we recognize another fact: Rhodes, particularly toward the end of the Ottoman period, also served as a place of exile. Some high-ranking officials who had fallen from favor or been sent far from the capital spent their final years here and were buried in this cemetery.
A well-documented striking example: Mehmed Şakib Pasha, a former governor of Egypt, was exiled to Rhodes and, according to sources, he and his wife both died on the same day in 1909 and were buried in the mausoleum here. Historical sources also note that Hâşmet, an Ottoman satirical poet, lies in a small walled enclosure in a corner of the courtyard; names such as Ahmed Abdullah, described as "a standard-bearer from Suleiman the Magnificent," appear on grave inscriptions. It should be added that Ottoman-language epitaphs on certain graves have been documented by scholars. While some details about particular graves remain at the level of tradition, the theme of exile and longing clearly permeates this courtyard.
Other Ottoman Traces in Rhodes
The Külliye of Murat Reis does not stand alone. Other Ottoman structures encountered while walking through the old city complete this heritage:
- The Süleymaniye Mosque: Built in the name of Suleiman following the 1522 conquest, reconstructed in 1808, and considered the island's most important surviving Ottoman monument. It has been closed for worship since 2014 due to restoration work.
- The Clock Tower of Fethi Pasha: Built in 1852 during the reign of Sultan Abdülmecid, the tower today serves as a cafe and viewing terrace, offering panoramic vistas of the city.
- The Turkish Quarter (Hora): This area, now the city's tourist center, preserves the street fabric from the Ottoman period.
- Structures such as the Bathhouse of Mustafa Pasha, the Mosque of Recep Pasha, and the Library of Hafız Ahmed Ağa likewise reflect the island's multilayered past.
Notes for Travelers
If you visit Rhodes, it is worthwhile to venture slightly beyond the crowded knight-route and stop at the Murat Reis cemetery. Walking beneath the cypresses, among the turbaned stones, you sense that the island is not merely a vacation destination but also a crossroads where centuries of different peoples, seafarers, and exiles have intersected. Though the mosque remains closed to active worship and the structure shows signs of neglect in places, the cemetery itself is a tranquil, thought-provoking, and photographically striking stop. We recommend confirming current access and opening status before a visit; Ottoman structures occasionally close for restoration.
In short, the Mosque of Koca Murat Reis and its cemetery represent an "overlooked" but undimmed chapter of Rhodes's story. In the midst of the Aegean, this corner—where an admiral, three officers, and countless exiles found peace—awaits patient discovery by every traveler curious about history's layers.
