Approximately 30 kilometers northwest of Amman, the capital of Jordan, stands the city of Salt (As-Salt), known for its houses built of yellow limestone rising above the hilltops. Most travelers visit this city for its historic fabric, which has been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List; however, on one of the city's hills, there is another stop of special significance for visitors from Türkiye: the Salt Turkish Martyrs' Cemetery. This cemetery, built in memory of approximately 300 Ottoman soldiers who lost their lives in these lands during the final years of World War I, is a quiet yet profound place of remembrance.

The Story of the Cemetery: The 1918 Spring Battles

On the Palestine-Syria front of World War I, the conflict between the Ottoman Empire and British and allied forces (Australia-New Zealand, i.e., ANZAC) moved to the territories of Jordan in the spring of 1918. Salt and its neighbor Amman were key points of this front; because the Hejaz Railway connecting Damascus and Medina passed through this region and formed the backbone of the Ottoman army's supply line. For this reason, the railway and surrounding cities were both targets for the British and priority areas for Ottoman defense.

According to records, the soldiers buried in the cemetery belonged to the 48th Division of the 4th Army and the 143rd, 145th, and 191st Infantry Regiments. These soldiers died heroically fighting in the first major British assault on Salt on March 24-26, 1918. Although British commander Allenby's forces captured Salt on March 26, they could not break through Ottoman defenses around Amman and were forced to withdraw in early April. The region changed hands several more times; ultimately, with the Battle of Megiddo in September 1918, the front completely collapsed and the Ottoman army withdrew from Jordan.

The Discovery of Lost Remains in a Cave

The most poignant aspect of these soldiers' story is that they were long forgotten. The remains of these brave men who gave their lives for their homeland were discovered in a small cave in Salt in 1973, decades after the war ended. This discovery became a tangible reminder of the region's suffering and later paved the way for memorialization efforts.

The organization of the cemetery began following an agreement reached with Jordan in the mid-1980s; the current memorial monument was constructed in 1989. Over the years, through restoration and maintenance work, the area took its present form. In 2009, a museum was opened next to the cemetery. This museum displays the uniforms worn by soldiers of the period, the equipment they used, and photographs narrating the Ottoman troops' struggle in the region.

Names Living in the Monument

Perhaps the most moving element of the memorial is that the names of soldiers whose identities could be determined are inscribed in stone. The names of 172 identified martyrs are engraved at the site. Of these names, 168 were born in Türkiye, while 4 were born in Amman—this detail also reveals the Ottoman army's structure, which brought soldiers from different geographies together.

In the area, there is also a symbolic grave erected in honor of the martyrs. As frequently emphasized in Turkish media, one of the distinguishing features that gives the site spiritual continuity is the recitation of the Qur'an throughout the day at the cemetery. The site generally includes a small garden, a caretaker's house, and sections containing photographs and information from the Ottoman period. Every year, around March 18, Martyrs' Day, commemorative ceremonies are held with the participation of officials from both countries.

The City of Salt: UNESCO Heritage and Ottoman Character

Visitors to the martyrs' cemetery should not leave without seeing the city of Salt itself. Salt was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2021 under the title "The Place of Tolerance and Urban Hospitality." The city is built upon three hills on the Balka plateau and was an important trade connection between the eastern desert and the west.

The characteristic face of Salt largely belongs to the final years of the Ottoman period. In the second half of the 19th century, as merchants from Nablus, Syria, and Lebanon prospered in the region, the modest village settlement rapidly developed into a town filled with magnificent public buildings and mansions constructed from characteristic yellow limestone. According to UNESCO records, the historic core of the city contains approximately 650 important historic structures that blend European Art Nouveau and Neo-Colonial styles with local traditions.

Another distinguishing feature of Salt is its urban fabric, where Muslims and Christians lived side by side in an integrated manner. The "Dawaween," known as guest houses (madafas), and the tradition called "Takaful Ijtimai" (social solidarity) are symbols of the city's hospitality culture.

Notes for Travelers

Salt is approximately 45 minutes from Amman and is ideal for a day trip from the capital. When planning your route, you may consider the following:

  • Salt Turkish Martyrs' Cemetery: Located on a hilltop in the city; both a historical site of remembrance and a vantage point commanding views of Amman and the surrounding region.
  • Historic city center: Very suitable for exploring on foot with its Ottoman-era houses of yellow limestone, narrow streets, and stepped passages.
  • Museums and cultural institutions: In addition to the museum next to the cemetery, other sites such as the Salt History Museum that narrate the city's past can be visited.
  • Hejaz Railway traces: Throughout the region, especially around Amman station, it is possible to see remnants of the railway line dating from the Ottoman period.

The Salt Turkish Martyrs' Cemetery is less a showy tourist stop and more a quiet memorial place that keeps alive the memory of people who passed far from their homeland a century ago. Ascending this hill during your journey to Jordan offers both a moment of reflection on history and on faithfulness. Salt itself is an open-air museum demonstrating how profoundly Ottoman architectural heritage left its mark beyond Anatolia.

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